The Edge and Back: Galway, The Cliffs of Moher & The Aran Islands

After the first few weeks of uncertainty and disappointment with the reality that the part of Ireland I was staying in was not what I had in mind, I finally found my Ireland. This past weekend was one of the most amazing, breathtakingly beautiful weekends of my life. I traveled from the east coast to the west coast to explore the ancient city of Galway, originally a major Irish port where wine was traded with continental Europe. I then went on to conquer the great Cliffs of Moher, looming 700 feet above the roaring ocean, spanning almost five miles. Finally, on to the picturesque Aran Islands, where I bicycled my way through hills and valleys of untouched Irish beauty. But now I am getting ahead of myself and must start from the very beginning of my journey to the edge and back.

DAY 1: Dublin
It began on Wednesday, with the arrival of Scott, a very exciting arrival! It being his first night in the town I knew I needed to show him all around Dublin City Center and indulge him in the great spirits of the Irish. We both sipped our first Temple Bar Guinness, while listening to the gentle strum of the guitarist playing Galway Girl and then Molly Malone. It was the perfect Irish beginning to the Irish meal that was to follow. We dined on potato and leek soup and steak and chips with brown gravy. It was perfectly delicious.

DAY 2: Galway
The next morning we arrived back in the city center bright and early to catch a bus to Galway. Much to my surprise the bus actually left exactly on time and arrived in Galway on time, driving us through farmlands and small town celebrations like Ballinasloe, one of the oldest horse fairs in Ireland, complete with a merry-go-round. When we arrived in Galway it was one of the best weather days I have had since I got to Ireland, although I must admit the weather has been decidedly good overall, but that day was warm and sunny with crystal clear blue skies. We ate this wonderful little pub called Townhouse, where we wound up having two more meals because it was so good. We sat outside in the sunshine, sipping Guinness and making friends with the locals, while munching on chips.

Galway is one of the sweetest little fishing towns I have ever seen.

There are churches everywhere in Ireland, each one more beautiful than the next.

Sunset on the Galway waterfront.

DAY 3: Cliffs of Moher
The next day it poured all morning, but that didn't dampen our spirits. Scott and I took a bus tour from Galway to the Cliffs of Moher, exploring the Burren region which is this crazy limestone rock covered lands, that seems to stretch for mile upon mile. While it seems gray and depressing there is actually a unique beauty in the way the green grass comes through the sides of the gray rock emphasizing the rich colors of each. Even with gray skies it didn't detract from how strong the greens are here, highlighted by the sea and sky.

We also went to see the Poulnabrone Dolmen, one of the most famous landmarks in the Burren. It was built by Neolithic Farmers almost 6,000 years ago. It is in the middle of the Burren and I am pretty sure if you didn't know what it was you wouldn't spend too much looking at it. The part that amazed me was that it is such a simple structure, yet has survived the elements of time for thousands of years.

We also trotted through a fairyring, where legends were made. Fairyrings are basically single circles of trees that I am not sure if anyone knows how they were made, but they are beautiful in their simplicity. There are hundreds of fairy tails, but the one that I loved the most was about the mother who looked after her child so ardently that her son was never able to be a real boy. He always had clean cloths and was never allowed to run and around. Then one day her son broke loose and ran in the garden, digging in the dirt, rolling in the mud. By the time his mother got him he was covered in head to toe with mud. His mother scrubbed and scrubbed him trying to get him clean, but the dirt would not get out from under his fingernails. Then not too long after that the boy went missing again, his mother was frantic. She looked everywhere for him and was giving up hope as the hours passed, but finally the boy showed up. When his mother asked where he had been all day, the boy responded by saying the fairies had taken him to their magical world. He had flown and played with them all day, but in the end they couldn't keep him and had to send him back to the real world because the he still had pieces of earth on him, under his dirty nails. From that day on the boy was always allowed to play and have fun like all the other little boys.

Then we traveled through countryside filled to the brim with history and beauty around curve in the road.

Then we finally made it. The Cliffs of Moher. In part I don't know if any words I could ever say would give justice to the awe inspiring sight of them. It is one of the most moving experiencing I have ever had. You stand at the edge of the cliffs and are hit by how small you really are. The pure sight of them makes me wonder what else there is in this world I have not seen. Pictures are one thing, but standing at the edge looking for the side the cliffs you cannot help but stop and realize how amazing this earth that we live on really is.

It is truly the most amazing sight I have ever seen in my entire life.

DAY4: The Aran Islands
Just when I thought it could not get any better we took a 45 minute bus south to the Ferry at Rossaveel and then over to the Aran Islands. Weather permitting, I was told renting bicycles was the best way to explore the Island. It is the best way. There is something to see and explore at every turn. Feeling the sea breeze flow through my hair as I rolled down the coast of Aran is the only way I would ever want to experience the beauty of this Island. The only part that I didn't realize when I rented the bikes is that the Aran Islands are not exactly flat. In fact, they are extremely hilly. Needless to say both Scott and I were a bit sore then next day, but it was definitely worth every achy muscle!

One of the oldest church remnants on the Island.

There are stone walls all over Ireland, but their beauty was evident on the Aran Islands because the walls were so close together and since the Island is quite hilly you could see them for miles.

There are farm animals, like horses, sheep and cows everywhere on the Island. I am not sure who owns them, or if they are even owned. But, they definitely add to the beauty of the Island. The water was absolutely gorgeous. It looked tropical in most places which was so unique and contrasting to the lush green grasses that surrounded it.

This was one of the most unexpected parts of the trip. After biking up this very large hill, you get to the top and there is a group of Aran sweater shops and then a small museum where you pay 1 euro. Scott and I were a little confused by this, but though hey, when else are we going to be here? So, we pay the euro and hike up a mountain, which only has a little trail leading up to what looks like a big circular stone structure. Then as you reach the top you realize you are at the edge of the Island. Since these cliffs were so unexpected they were almost more beautiful and awe inspiring than the Cliffs of Moher.

Absolutely amazing.

This was by far my favorite part of the trip.

DAY 5: Back to Dublin
After an action packed weekend, Sunday was finally a day of rest. Scott and I ventured around Galway a bit more, poking in shops and having a leisurely lunch at the favorite Townhouse. We then caught the bus back to Dublin to gear up for a big Monday of tours and more.

DAY 6: Here's to Arthur.. and John!
Since Ireland is known for its drinking, we thought it only proper to see how the famous drinks were made! We toured the Jameson Distillery where I was given a diploma as an official Jameson taster, which I can now proudly say I will probably never drink again. Hard liquor is definitely not my idea of delicious. Nonetheless, I did partake in the merriment and cheer.

Getting ready to enter the distillery!

The original barrels that they age the 18 year old Whiskey in. I can say it is much smoother than Scotch whiskey, like John Walker and Jack Daniels does not even enter into the same realm as Jameson, as I learned during my taste test.

GUINNESS! After Jameson, I was a little toured out, but knew that we had to go to Guinness. It is an Irish institution after all. The tour house is actually amazing. It is seven stories that tells the entire story of how Guinness is made, how it came to be Guinness, runs through the entire 250 years of advertising, which was my favorite part and then the best part is the seventh floor, the Gravity Bar. The Gravity Bar is one of the coolest places in Dublin. It is very similar to Top of the Hub in Boston, a 360 degree view of the entire city and then up to the mountains. It is the perfect way to end the tour. And, it really is true, Guinness does taste better here.

Just a little excited. I was too!

To Arthur!

Just lounging at Arthur's desk in his chair.

The John Gilroy advertisement campaign with the Toucan, Giraffe and other circus characters was definitely my favorite!

Gravity Bar

Amazing views.


From every angle.

Cheers!

All in all, it was one of the best weekends of my life. I could not have asked for better weather, better food, better drinks or most of all better company. Cheers!